Landing in Oaxaca felt like a home coming! As you probably know, I lived here for close to a year in 2020, and returned in 2022 for a bit--a year ago in the spring--to get dental work done. This time, I solely came to see friends and determine whether or not I might try to live here again. Thus, the 2 week trial...
My conclusion? The jury is still out. There is much that I still love about this town: The wonderful architecture and art; the churches; the people; the wonderful restaurants, cafes... abundance of both Mexican and gringo food. The fact that there is a lap pool to swim in, a bike to rent (and bike lanes/trails!), hills to hike in. The Oaxaca Lending Library, where expats and Mexicanos can mingle and do intercambio. The fact that there is the familiarity... there is a nice blending of American conveniences with the traditional Mexican culture. And finally, there is my wonderful dentist, Ernie, who charges more now but is still MUCH more affordable-- and better!-- than dentists in the U.S.
On the other hand...! Like so many magical towns, the influx of digital nomads and expats have driven up the prices of everything... from food to accomodations. (Of course, I do acknowledge that some of this is the result of worldwide inflation... but where too many gringos gather, it is decisively worse!) What's more, the peso is getting stronger, and the dollar, weaker. We Americans used to get 20 pesos to the dollar... no mas! Now, it is 16-17 per dollar, which significantly decreases our buying power. Most disheartening!
The amount of traffic was always a lot, but seems to have gotten worse since I was here last. The cahuetes (fire rockets! ugh!) are alive and well and noisy as ever. I would still be as alone as ever. And...not getting any younger! But most of the expats ARE young... mostly in pairs, as are the retired expats my age. I yet remain a "third wheel" if I am even invited to do anything with such couples. But of course, as an expat, I would be faced with this issue anywhere in the world...
In conclusion? I don't HAVE a conclusion! I simply don't know. Regardless, I spent a very nice 2 weeks in the town, and took some nice photos of places, both new and revisited.
First up, second full day, and revisited with my friend Elvira: The hike past the Guelaguetza tent up the El Fortin hill. This has always been a favorite excursion of mine! The climb is great and the views of Oaxaca are spectacular. This aspect was new, though: police on horseback! Happy to see this, since there was a rash of robberies up here a couple of years ago. This is one VERY positive side effect of a bigger influx of tourists and expats: more police protection! These gentlemen told Elvira it is safe up on the trails now, thanks to their presence... and that is HUGE!
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| They were certainly very friendly fellows, happy to chat with us and letting me give some love to their beautiful horses! Nothing like the classic look of a Mexicano on horseback! And you know me, I have a soft spot for the police (having been one myself umpteen years ago, as most of you readers know!) |
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Being the tail end of rainy season in Oaxaca, the skies were consistently blue, with billowy clouds, and deliciously clean air!
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As mentioned, there is the food... of course food is great everywhere in Mexico, but Oaxaca has some specialities which I like the best. Unfortunately, the most famous ones have meat.. however, more and more vegetarian/vegan options are appearing in this town. How great is that?!?
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This is one of my faves: cheese enchilada with quesillo (special regional cheese) and mole sauce! YUM!
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papaya...so good for you, and this was an especially tasty one!
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Decaf and a fantastic, home-baked cookie at my favorite cafe... A.M. Siempre
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| They don't look so pretty...more like alien beings... but these lychee nuts are divine!! |
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A blending of many varieties constitutes the healthiest breakfast ever!!
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Not so healthy, but still so good (and famous in Oaxaca!): crema de mezcal... this one, cappuchino... just a nip in the evening does the trick!
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Beautiful churches--and murals on the streets everywhere--are both big draws of Oaxaca... certainly what contributes to this town being so very "magical"!
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| My life's theme, exactly!!! (What I lack in $$, I make up for with a big heart... something to that effect!) |
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much beloved are images related to el dia de las muertes... the dead are remembered--and honored--all the time, not just for the actual fiesta!
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The rooster stands alone in its own catagory! Street roosters and street dogs still roam everywhere freely! Good for the roosters... NOT good for the poor dogs...
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Friday evening, the 15th, marked a VERY important celebration in Mexico: El Dia de la Independencia, or day of independence. This is when Mexico freed itself of the Spanish rule... and well, let's face it... just another excuse for a party in the streets... lots of noise, color and fun! The night began with dinner out at a vegetarian restaurant in Jalatlaco, where I was staying. I was joined by Elvira and a new, young friend, Fatima, whom I met at a cumpleanos party I was invited to join in on. They both speak excellent English, so I had to insist on intercambio so I could still practice my pathetic Spanish! After dinner, we made our way over to the zocalo--the main square in the center of town--where the main festivities were being held. There were organized games for kids, lots of music, and just general crowd merriment. I was surprised to NOT see much--if any--drinking in the streets... maybe the police were being stricter about this and it was confined to the restaurants. Most unusual! In any event, the traditional Mexican music on the center stage was wonderful, but since there was nowhere to sit down, I didn't last long...neither did Fatima, who has loving parents and a curfew! Besides the music, the other highlight was a parade... best part of IT being the police drum corps!
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street flags are ubiquitus in Oaxaca... but the ones put up for the fiesta were especially fabulous...love those proud Mexican flag colors!
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| The three happy ladies dining together! I had kung pao tofu... tasty but rather too spicy! Fatima had chocolate waffles, and Elvira, a nice large salad with baked chick peas and assorted veggies. |
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The main cathedral and promient part of the zocalo-- so lovely when lit up at night, and this night, surrounded by huge throngs of celebrants.
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Crazy guy in weird costume who wouldn't let me photograph the front of him without paying him an exorbitant amount of pesos! Fat chance!!!
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It is a little hard to make out, but kids and adults alike were spraying each other with this weird, foamy stuff...getting it all over everyone and everything! To each his own, as they say... but they DID seem to have a heck of a lot of fun doing it!!
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The parade of city officials, marching so nicely in unison!
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and best of all: the drummers!
I rented a great mountain bike for a week and had a fabulous time riding it--not so much around town, where I had to be super wary of the traffic--but rather, on my two long-distance country rides. The first one you see photos of below was to the lovely town of Tule, about 40 minutes east of the city center. I kept going past it, up into the hills and surrounding countryside. It is truly gorgeous out there in the farmlands, and is another huge, positve point about life in Oaxaca, especially for a passionate cyclist like myself!
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| The very lovely town hall of Tule, spruced up in Mexican colors for El Dia de la Independencia! |
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| The famous Tule (cypress) tree: widest in the world, apparently, and over 2,000 years old! It is truly spectacular, and a major tourist attraction since so close to Oaxaca. (The photo doesn't even come close to doing it justice! Check out better ones online...) |
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Ahhh, country roads...take me home...wherever the heck that "home" might be!!!
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| I spied this majestic bird up in the tree's branches... then watched it take off and fly... so magnificent! Hard to identify, but I think a hawk of some variety? |
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| Such lovely scenery along the country roads! |
Besides El Fortin, I also got in another, quite wonderful, hike with a Whatsapp hiking group I found out about. We went to a very steep mountain called Pacheco-- I had been there before, but it was great to go back. It was a very steep climb, so great exercise... good company, great views along the way and from the peak! I also met a lovely couple from the U.S... Dan and Cheryl... and--get this-- same last name! I mean, what are the chances?!? Two Jewish American girls in Oaxaca, on the same hike, no less: one is Cheryl Goldberg, the other, Sheri Goldberg?!!? Crazy, right??!! (Sadly, failed to get a photo of them...)
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View looking up the peak before we began our ascent...
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| Triumphant at the top! Marked by the large green crosses.. this woman was Fabriola, a lovely fellow hiker! |
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Happy gang, together at the top!
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Finally, before returning my rented bike, I took one final, great ride up into the hills of San Felipe, where I got a last panoramic view Oaxaca (from another angle). It was a terrific climb, and spectacularly beautiful day. A great last "hurrah", as it were!
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