First of all, the claim that many people make about Portugal being "cheaper" than the rest of Europe is a complete fallacy! Outrageously so. From getting gouged at the ATM's ($120 U.S. for 100 Euros, when it SHOULD have been $110 or better-- the rate I typically got elsewhere in Europe); to food prices, admission prices, accommodations, etc... all was QUITE expensive here. SO... I did what I always do in pricey places: forego most tourist attractions, buy groceries and make my own food... and, this is a first for me in my travels: stay in a "youth" hostel!
The hostel was actually a pleasant surprise, for the most part! I shared a dorm room with 3 other women for the 3 nights I was in Tavira. There were 2 bunk beds...fortunately, I had a lower one.. and the women were nice. However, they WERE young--stayed out late, slept in, left stuff everywhere... but it was tolerable. They didn't make too much noise, and I really liked one young woman who was there doing a yoga teacher training. The facility itself was sparkly clean, the staff phenomenally friendly and helpful, the breakfast (included in the price of about $27 per night) was decent. My biggest challenge was the communal bathroom: There was only one usable toilet (the second one was SO close to the stall door as to leave NO room for one's knees--REALLY bizarre!!) and it was always getting stopped up with TP (the flush button didn't work properly). Also, since I have to get up twice in the night to use it, the light sensors triggered the EXTREMELY bright fluorescent lights to come on, blinding me on my way in and out! But... the price was right (as opposed to over a $100 for even a room--per night-- in an Airbnb) and it was tolerable for the 3 nights. Additionally, I met some nice, older people like myself...and even a few families, so it was a pleasant and congenial atmosphere.
The town itself was quite touristic, as expected...but certainly had its charm. I enjoyed the white-washed walls, the tiled walls, the churches... and the lovely color of the Atlantic Ocean. I rented a bike one day and rode into the countryside... it was hot, dry and barren for a lot of the way...but it was great to be riding! There WAS one VERY aggravating moment when a cat--yes, you heard it right! a bloody CAT!!-- ran in front of my bike and caused me to fall! I could NOT believe it!!! Thankfully, I was only a little bruised in my left hip and shoulder...but really, really mad!!!
Besides the ride (apart from the fall!), I also really enjoyed 2 nights of great entertainment in the main town square. The first night had a troupe of juggler/dancers, who were quite talented and amazing... the second night, another troupe of modern dancers, also fantastic. Best of all, the entertainment was FREE!! Virtually unheard of, right? SO...that made it all the better.
More details are contained in the photos below.
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Classically Portuguese, though not white! This was a church on a pretty street that I came across in my wanderings.
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View of the town and the river running through it... on the pedestrian bridge in between the two sides of the town. There were many pedestrian-only streets in the center of town, which made strolling about quite pleasant. Even where cars were allowed, there was very little traffic, so that was also nice, especially when riding the rental bike!
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One sees a lot of these beautifully tiled exterior walls of houses in this region, known as Algarve. Apparently, the industrial tiles are not too expensive, hold up well, and protect the walls from the salty sea air.
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| Hilarious sign in a park... not sure of the words but the intent is clear: don't let your dog poop here! (or at least pick it up if you do!) |
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Another lovely abode... the tiled red roofs are quite standard as well, and so pretty!
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A typical placard for the street name: the names, VERY long, hilarious to listen to the google maps bot try to get these pronounced in some discernable fashion when guiding me!
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Also charming: the cobblestone streets, and peeling paint!
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Sadly, and strangely, all the churches I passed were closed! So...only external photos were possible.
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Hard to see in the background, but this pretty, manicured garden was at the center of some medieval castle ruins, mostly just consisting of a surrounding wall.
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The restaurant I was happy to discover--in a small town near Tavira-- while out on my bike ride. This prawn salad was actually a GREAT deal at only 7.50 Euros! Plus, my table had a bit of a seaside view...
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As you can see, the color of the ocean was lovely, but there were lots of open, sandy and salty places like this along the shoreline. Apparently, a big industry here in the Algarve region is that of mining salt. But as you can also discern, I rode along under direct sun, and it was both hot AND humid! Pretty intense...
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Nice view crossing over the wooden bridge... Not sure if this was an actual river or just an inlet from the ocean.
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Always SO happy to be able to ride! However, though a nice bike, not cheap: 17 Euro, or a little over $19 U.S., just for the day... not even including evening time, because the shop--though I rented the bike on a Saturday--closed at 6 p.m.! Most unusual, especially for southern Europe.
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| On Friday the 14th, I took the ferry from the town center on over to the island where all the beaches were. This was my lunch: a classic, regional dish of fresh (fried) sardines, bones and all! Tasty but a bit unpleasant to chew! NOT cheap, at 10 Euro...and the service was terrible (So if you go to the Tavira Island beach, avoid this place called the "Sunshine Bar"!) |
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| The beach! Not overcrowded, at least... but it was windy, and the water was QUITE cold, so I only managed a quick, 10 minute paddle in the ocean...disappointing. Plus, the wind kept uprooting my umbrella (borrowed from the hostel) and blowing sand in my face! Truly, NOT a pleasant day at the beach! I did not return. |
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