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Iconic and exceedingly famous, this is the main destination of every tourist and pilgrim who comes to Assisi: The Basilica of St. Francis. His tomb is beneath the church and is visited by thousands of pilgrims weekly. A bit about him: "Giovanni di Pietro di Bernardone, better known as Francis of Assisi (Italian: Francesco d'Assisi; c. 1181 – 3 October 1226), was an Italian mystic and Catholic friar who founded the Franciscans. He was inspired to lead a life of poverty as an itinerant preacher. One of the most venerated figures in Christianity, Francis was canonized by Pope Gregory IX on July 16th, 1228."
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It is no small deal, getting from the Ananda community into the town of Assisi. Being without a vehicle, I was forced to beg for a ride from someone going there, or else take a bus, which leaves at the painfully early hour of 7 a.m.! It also involves a scenic-but-very-windy drive down a narrow country road…best not to be driven after a full meal!
Thankfully, on this day of May 12th, I was able to get a ride with someone from the community–going there, but not coming back. (I had to return by public transit--more about that in a moment!)
It was an overcast day...fairly cold, but not horrifically so...with sporadic rain (mostly a misty drizzle). I was SO thrilled to have a full day to explore the magical town at last!
In addition to some much needed shopping (and getting Euros from the town's ATM), I planned to explore five famous sites and eat some spectacular Italian food. Unfortunately the meal I wound up eating was at a touristy, expensive, God-awful place, with over-cooked, greasy pasta...really tragic! However the five sites did NOT disappoint! Each was different and unique; each was gorgeous, awe-inspiring, and well worth the visit.
At the end of the day, tired but happy, I sat in the main plaza, sipping decaf espresso and eating a divine cone of gelato (never too cold for gelato, after all!), as I watched the hordes of tourists passing by, braving the not-so-favorable weather as well. I tried eavesdropping on some of the tour guides' explanations from time to time...most were in Italian, unfortunately...but I caught snatches of English in some of the groups.
Why so tired? The town of Assisi is situated on a hillside. I exhausted myself by going up the streets and down the streets, multiple times, to get to the different churches. I at least never tired of photographing the views as I marched up and down. Because it is such a well-preserved, medieval town, there was no shortage of extremely photogenic spots... My greatest challenge creating this blog post was selecting which ones to publish, out of at least one hundred that I photographed! Below are the explanations and results of this “painful” process!
Oh, and finally, the transport back “home”: Well, I got a private ride on the local bus--yes, as it transpired, I was the only passenger--and the driver was a complete maniac! He took the curves going at least 25 km. over the speed limit (I know this because I was watching my Google maps app so as not to miss my stop)! I swear I thought he was on a suicide mission, and was going to take me with him… (A la Sidney Pollack, if you have seen that movie...yikes!!!) But no, he dropped me safely (albeit, seriously carsick!) back at Ananda in about half the time it would normally have taken, and I was VERY grateful to have made it back alive!!! And, as they say, I lived to tell my tale of the day. Enjoy the photos of this “survivor”!
Part one: The marvelous old streets and stone buildings... Charming, narrow, infinitely walkable.... and ever so pictureseque!
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Part 2: First church-- Cathedral of San Rafino. Though hardly anyone was there visiting, it was actually my favorite... the art work inside was jaw-droppingly magnificent. I liked the fact that it was so peaceful...it was apparently nowhere near as famous as the next four...
A brief synopsis is as follows: "This stately church in Umbrian Romanesque style was the third church built on the same site to contain the remains of bishop Rufinus of Assisi, martyred in the 3rd century."
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There was a hall off to one side, containing an amazingly impressive painting collection of the pope in different postures and activities... all done from photos, surely, but incredibly life-like! Clearly made by superb artists... |
Part 3: Second church-- Temple of Minerva (In the main plaza of Assisi)
Synopsis: "The Temple of Minerva (Italian: Tempio di Minerva) is an ancient Roman Building in Assisi, Umbria, central Italy. It currently houses a church, Santa Maria sopra Minerva, built in 1539 and renovated in Baroque style in the 17th century.
Part 4: Third Church -- Most famous in Assisi, of course-- the Basilica of San Franciso, or, as we know him in the U.S., Saint Francis of Assisi. The church was humongous, and contained 3 levels! Namely, the main church, the lower church, and the tomb at the lowest level, where St. Francis is actually buried.
Photos were NOT allowed inside of the church, but I happily managed to sneak in a few before I was "caught" and told NOT to take them! (The famous paintings on the ceilings were the most impressive aspect... why I focused on them)
More about the church:
"The Basilica of Saint Francis of Assisi is the mother church of the Roman Catholic Order of Friars Minor Conventual in Assisi, a town in the Umbria region in central Italy, where Saint Francis was born and died. It is a Papal minor basilica and one of the most important places of Christian pilgrimage in Italy. It was first opened in 1253."
Rooms where the monks resided




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A friar pilgrim on his way to visit the basilica... I was so happy to have captured his image without him knowing. SUCH a classic portrayal of a humble pilgrim!
Part 5: 4th Church -- Basilica of Santa Chiara (aka, tomb of Saint Claire, close disciple of St. Francis)-- about her: "Clare of Assisi (born Chiara Offreduccio; 16 July 1194 – 11 August 1253) was an Italian saint and one of the first followers of St Francis of Assisi. Inspired by the teachings of St. Francis, she founded the Order of Poor Ladies, a monastic religious order for women in the Franciscan tradition. The order of poor ladies was different from any other order or convent because it followed a rule of strict poverty."
The church itself, while interesting, was not as impressive as the others...but what WAS impressive was the view! (I will include these photos in part 7). Otherwise... I was not wow'ed by the visit. But-don't get me wrong--it ws still beautiful.
This was the interesting part: the relics. That is to say, robes worn by both Saint Claire and Saint Francis. Pretty amazing to think that these fabrics have been so well-preserved for over 800 years!!!
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Part 6 -- 5th and final church -- Santa Maria Maggiore -- "The current structure dates from the 11th-12th centuries, although it was built on a pre-existing Palaeo Christian church; the latter had been in turn erected above a Roman edifice, the so-called "Propertius' Domus" or a temple dedicated to Apollo or, according to the tradition, to Janis. The church served as the city's cathedral until 1036, when the title was moved to the current cathedral, the Church of San Rufino."
More fascinating to me, though, was the dedication and tomb within, to a modern age, boy saint by the name of Carlo Acutis. I had never heard of him, but when I read about him, I was quite taken by the story. I also completely fixated on the extremely life-like, wax figure of him "resting in peace" above the actual tomb... macabre in a way, yet at the same time, strangely comforting. I guess it made it easier for the reverent to connect with him, or who he had been... one could sit and meditate in front of this display.. I did, and it was quite peaceful.
Here is the story about this young man: "Carlo Acutis (3 May 1991 – 12 October 2006) was an English-born Italian Catholic youth and website designer, who is best known for documenting Eucharistic miracles around the world and cataloguing them onto a website which he created before his death from leukemia. He was noted for his cheerfulness, computer skills, and deep devotion to the Eucharist, which became a core theme of his life. He was beatified on 10 October 2020, two days before the 14th anniversary of his death."
Part 7: Various views from the streets of Assisi (and churches) -- Because the town is high on a hillside, the views overlooking the fertile valley below are positively breath-taking. Since it was--off and on--an overcast day, the conditions for photographing these views could not have been more ideal! So... as you can see below, I took a LOT of photos from different places...all were stunning, so hope you don't mind perusing them all!
And so completes my very rapid tour of Assisi... well-worth the visit, as well as the challenge of getting there and back!
View from Basilica of St. Francis, with a large part of the monastery courtyard in the foreground.
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Looking over the prettily tiled roof tops of the town below me...
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I enjoyed all of these in Assisi this fall, very special places! Glad you could be there. Nice!
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